Malcolm's Bed

A Portable Platform Bed with Storage Beneath

The bed we use is a derivative of the one designed by Master Malcolm MacGregor, most recently reported to be in An Tir. It isn’t a period design, but it is extremely functional, and it’s easy to make and transport. It will take you four or more sheets of plywood, but there will be lots of leftovers to use for chests or tabletops. If you get together with someone else who wants to make one of these, you can map out your wood so that it’s more economical on a per-bed basis. It doesn't have to be pretty plywood, because it will all be covered, but you will be happier with it if it's at least reasonably smooth-finished.

There are two cuts of plywood that go the length of the mattress plus about 5". Note that standard mattresses are 75" for twin and full sized (double) beds, and 80" for queen and king, but most air mattresses are not the full size of standard mattresses. Inflate yours and measure it! Don't trust the measurements on the packaging. The width of the lengthwise pieces is the height you want the bottom of your bed to be off the floor. Note that Rubbermaid 18-gallon tubs are 16.5" tall and Sterlite 18-gallon tubs are 15.25" tall. You will want about at least one inch of clearance to make them easy to slide out from under the bed.

There are 4 cross-pieces that are the width of your mattress. One of them will be your headboard. Twin beds are 39" wide, doubles are 54", queens are 60" and kings are 72". Note the caveat about the skimpy sizes of air mattresses mentioned in the last paragraph. The short dimension of these pieces is the same as the short dimension of your lengthwise pieces. The width of the headboard piece is whatever you want it to be, but make it taller than the other cross-pieces by at least the height of your mattress plus the thickness of your platform boards. To determine how many you want, decide how many storage buckets you want under the edge of your bed. You will need at least 24" (plus a little more to make it easy to slide out) for the Rubbermaid tubs, and an inch more for Sterlite, between cross-pieces. For a queen-sized mattress, this neatly allows for 6 tubs, 3 on each side.

There are 2 or 3 platform pieces. They do not have to be of equal size, but it does make it easier to pack your vehicle if they are. They must be at least wide enough that there is a cross-piece under each one, and they must be broad enough to support your entire mattress breadth. I have had beds of this design with both configurations, and I do not have a real preference of one over the other. Use what packs best in your vehicle.

From here out, my measurements will be based on a standard 60"x80" queen-sized mattress, which we are lucky enough to have found in an air mattress format.

Assume you are using 1/2" plywood. Heavier is not necessary, but if you intend to dismantle it frequently, it may hold up better in the long run to use 5/8” plywood. Cut two pieces of plywood 18"x88". Mark these boards across their short dimension at 5", 31", 57", and 83". (If you are using Rubbermaid, you can make the pieces just 85" long and mark at 5", 30", 55" and 80".) Cut a slot halfway across each piece about just wide enough to slide an offcut of plywood into the slot. You don't want it tight, but too big will make your bedframe sloppy. 5/8" to 3/4" is about right. Center the slots over your marked measurements. Do make sure they are properly perpendicular to the edge of your wood. If they are angled or curved, the bed will not assemble properly.

Cut 3 pieces of plywood 18"x60". Mark them 18" from each end, leaving 24" between the marks. Cut slots half way across the width of the cross-pieces the same way you did with your lengthwise pieces.

Cut 1 piece of plywood of a size appropriate for your desired headboard. It is best if you make it the full width of the bed, but that isn't crucial. I believe ours is about 3'x4', but I may be mistaken on that measurement. Cut slots in the headboard with the same center gap as the cross-pieces, and the same 9" deep. You can paint, stain, upholster, carve, or otherwise decorate your headboard to your heart’s content. It’s the only part of the bed wood that will show! Currently, our headboard is not particularly lovely. It’s a project I want to work on…when I get a chance.

Finally, cut your platform pieces, 60” wide, of widths that add up to 80”.

Sanding and staining or otherwise finishing your wood at this stage will protect it from the elements and will diminish the likelihood of splinters and raw edges snagging things.

To assemble, prop the lengthwise pieces on their edges, with the slots facing up, about 2 feet apart. Drop the slots in the headboard into the slots in the lengthwise pieces at the 5” position. Drop the other crosswise pieces into slots at the other positions. Lay the platform over the frame.

To dress the bed, first put a bedskirt/dust ruffle over the platform. This will hide the plastic buckets and protect the air mattress from any splinters that may develop in the platform. I recommend the tailored style rather than the ruffled style. If you want to put an extra sheet of canvas or other tough fabric between the wood and your mattress for additional protection, I won’t think poorly of you. Next, set your mattress on top of the platform. Inflate if, if it’s an air mattress. Put a mattress pad or featherbed on top of the mattress. Put sheets on your mattress. We like flannel sheets for camping when it’s going to be cold, which is most of the time we end up camping. Blankets, quilts, comforters, or whatever you like to put over you at night go next. A nice touch is an embroidered topper or bedspread, or for people with less refined tastes or earlier personnae, and an appreciation for fur, a few sheepskins can be tossed on top.

Lift the bedskirt/dust ruffle to tuck your storage buckets under the edges of the bed, and to access them later.

A final note: if you have items that you really, really want to hide away or keep secure, putting them in the interior cubbies (between the lengthwise supports) will act almost like a safe. No one will know they are there, and they’ll have to take apart your entire bed-dressing to get to them.

Pictures to come.

Comments by Æduin: The next one that we make I'm going to get the major pieces cut to size at Home Depot. This will a) make the pieces easier to transport and b) guarantee that the cuts are straight. I'll then cut the slots and do the finishing at home.

--------------------------------------------------

All photographs, articles, and graphics on this website are protected by copyright laws and may not be duplicated without permission.