Nov. 23 2005 11:57am

Getting started. While doing the pinking for "The Tailor" I got curious about different methods of keeping the fabric from fraying. For that project I used a hot knife and cut/sealed it from the back since it was a synthetic fabric. However, I knew that wouldn't work in all instances. So, I decided to test various methods.

I have seven fabric samples: Trigger, Polyester upholstry fabric with backing, synthetic moire, cotton damask, linen, silk twill and a shot silk taffeta. Each of these has had all edges serged and three cuts, horizontal, vertical and bias. This first round will be washed with no treatment to the edges to see what happens as a baseline for the subsequent tests.

I plan on doing a couple other rounds using various methods to control the raveling. I'm going to try FrayCheck or it's moral equivalent, a waterproof wood glue, contact cement, and a true hide glue if I can find it.

Moire, trigger and backed poly.
Damask, linen, silk tafetta, silk twill

Nov. 23, 2005 6:17pm

Well, some surprises and not so surprises.

The moire did ok. Bias was best, followed by across the weft then across the warp.
The trigger did well. Across the weft then bias or across the warp were about the same.
The backed poly did surprisingly poorly given that it was backed with an upholstery goop. Across the warp was slightly better than the weft but across the bias was worst.
The damask frayed fairy equally across all three cuts.
Linen, umm, yeah, big ball of fray.
Taffetta: There was virtually no fraying on the bias and minimal on the other two cuts.
Silk twill, very minimal fraying on the bias. And some on the warp and weft cuts.

So, all fabrics tested generally need some form of treatment to stop the fraying. But, I figured that and did this test as a baseline.

Bias, best on three, worst on one, middle on one and two that they were all pretty bad.

May 15, 2006, 6:06pm

Here we go again. I'm starting the project over for a couple reasons. One, I can't find the original pieces (I know, bad researcher). Two, I didn't like the random sizes of the pieces anyway. And Three, I'm attaching each of the methods to it's own color of ribbon to keep them segregated.

So, I've cut three sets of swatches so far all 2"x4" and serged the edges. I then made the three cuts in each, along the warp, along the weft and along the bias. I then attached them to the ribbons: White for no treatment, red for Elmer's Probond Interior/Exterior Wood Glue and navy blue for Super Glue Corp. Contact Cement, Professional Quality. I've put the treated ones outside in the sun to dry and will wash and dry all three tomorrow.

I have four more to do-a commercial fray check type product, a good old fashioned glue stick, hide glue and beeswax.

May 16, 2006, 2:30pm

A couple things I forgot, gum arabic and/or gum tragacanth, and a simple whip stitch.. My wonderful LiveJournal friends list reminded me of these and also gave nice hints on margins.

Contact Cement applied to the front, before washing.
Back side of the contact cement. Note how it didn't bleed through much except in the silk twill and linen.
Wood glue applied to the front, pre wash.
Back side of the wood glued pieces. Again, note the minimal bleed through except for the silk twill and linen.

These are in the wash now along with the new un-treated sample. After the wash and dry, I'll scan and update.

May 17, 2006, 10:24am

Interesting, but not surprising results so far.

Contact Cement, front after washing.
Contact cement, back after washing.
Wood glue, front after washing.
Wood glue, back after washing.

Conclusions for these two methods. I found that while they both worked extremely well for stopping the fraying they both had some issues with some of the fabrics. They both soaked through the linen and the silk twill enough that they were visible from the other side. In addition the wood glue stiffened the fabrics so that they would not lay properly.

I'll be getting some hide glue and gum tragacanth this weekend. So, more updates next week.

May 27, 2006 4:46pm

Six more samples have been done. Colors of ribbon and their method:

The fray check and fray block were the easiest to apply of the liquids since they came in bottles and tubes with applicator tips. The gum tragacanth was easily applied with a finger. The glue stick was easy but wasteful since it was much wider than the pinks. The liquid stitch had an applicator tip but still had to be spread with a finger so was messier than the thinner anti-fray products.

They have to finish drying and then into the washer they go. Pictures tomorrow or Monday.

May 28, 2006 2:38pm

Slight change in the picture setup with yesterday's results. No prewash pictures, they all dried basically clear. No backside pictures, not much difference with the front.

Glue stick. Didn't do much. But that is about what I expected.
Liquid stitch fabric glue. Worked well, minimal bleed through and fabric discoloration. However, the edges stuck together again when pressed, but, were easy to pull apart.
Gum Tragacanth. Worked ok on the taffeta, but that may just be the fabric's natural resistance (see untreated above) since everything else also frayed like it wasn't treated.
Dritz Fray Check. Worked well on everything but the moire and the damask. It did leave marks/stains on the silks.
June Taylor Fray Block. Worked well on the silks, ok on the moire, trigger, backed poly and damask, and didn't do anything for the linen.
Interfacing. Kept major fraying from happening but the edges still frayed a little bit.

Things left to try: gum arabic, beeswax, hide glue. I'm also going to wash a sample of fulled wool. The last thing to be done will be simple whip stitching.

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