Creating Inset Collars

Creating Inset Collars, as first taught at Costume College July 2005.

Introduction.

Inset collars can be found in men's doublets in the 15th and 16th Centuries, probably later but my focus is on the SCA time period. They are either triangular or rounded at the bottom and are either one piece or two depending on how the doublet is constructed. What I have seen is the number of collar pieces matching the number of back pieces, i.e. a one piece back having a one piece collar. (Example pictures were lost in an overly ambitious file dump and will be added later.) The inset piece extends up and around the neck to form the collar. Personally, I find this to be a very comfortable collar since there is no seam at the back of the neck to create bulk.

Patterning.

You need to adjust your personal pattern to the new collar style. The inset goes from the outside of the neck down to a point on the centerline of the back. Generally a semi-circle or equilateral triangle will give you a proportionate sized inset. Existing pattern pieces can be used as a template but remember to move your seam allowances to the bottom of the inset and the top of the inset cutout.

Attaching the Inset to the Back.

Two Piece Triangular.

I'm going to describe this one first since it's the easiest and quickest. Take the two pieces for each side, the back and the inset, and stitch them together. Press the seam flat. Then sew the two assembled back pieces together creating a single back panel.

One Piece Triangular.

This is very similar to adding gores or godets into a tunic or dress. Sew each seam separately and don't try to go down one side then back up the other rotating the fabric, or more than likely you'll end up with a pucker at the point. Clip the point of the inset and then press flat.

General Notes About the Curved Insets.

1. Mark your seam allowance on the inside of the inset piece using something that will come out.

2. Stay stitch along the seam allowance line.

3. Make slits in the inset from the edge to the stay stitched seam allowance line every inch or so depending on the sharpness of the curve. This is just like clipping the fabric for curves, but it's done before you sew the fabric together.

4. Starting at the Center Back pin the two layers together placing one pin between each pair slits and matching the edges of the inset and the main back panel. There will be gaps and overlaps depending on where you are in the curve, this is NORMAL. In fact, it's the reason for the slits.

5. Slowly and carefully sew the two pieces together making sure that the back fabric doesn't bunch up and create tucks. If you do this with the inset panel on top you can follow your seam allowance line to make sure you don't have any slits showing once you've finished. However this does mean that you have to take extra care to make sure you are only sewing through two layers of fabric.

6. (Only applies if you are doing a two piece inset.) Iron the seams down then sew the two back pieces together.

Notes Pertaining to All Styles.

1. Remember to not sew the inset all the way to the top of the back piece, leaving a seam allowance to sew the front and back pieces together.

2. Press and closely trim all the seams where you attached the inset to the back panel. For the triangle inset press the seams open. For the curved it may be easier to press them folded up the back.

Finishing the Construction.

After the insets have been attached and you have assembled the two back pieces if necessary, you assemble the rest of the body of the doublet normally-sewing the side and shoulder seams. Once this is done you should have a doublet layer with the rest of the collar flapping loose at the shoulder seams. Sew these to the front panels of the doublet.

Congratulations, you've completed a layer.

Pictures.

Triangular Inset.

	Inset and body for the triangular insert.
	One side of the trianular inset sewn.
	Finished triangular inset.

Curved Inset

	Pieces for the curved inset.
	Curved inset marked, stay-stitched and slit.
	Curved insed pinned to the body.
	Curved inset sewn to the body.

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